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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.